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Planting Guide

This is it, your moment to get planting! As excited as you may be to dig in, pop your plant out of its pot, place it in its new home and call it done, there’s a little more to it than that! Taking the time to properly plan and prepare the location for your new tree, shrub, perennial, veggie or flower garden is critical. Many problems experienced by home gardeners could have been prevented by spending a bit more time preparing for their new addition. Following the guidelines below will get your plant off to a great start!

Deciduous Trees

The planting hole should be at least 12” wider and deeper than the root ball. For example: A root ball 18” wide and 12” deep requires a minimum hole 30” wide and 24” deep. The hole should be generally be 1½ to 2 times larger than the root ball so that it is deep enough to accommodate the root system without crowding.

After digging is complete, backfill the hole with good soil to a depth 3” more shallow than the depth of the root ball. The soil mix should consist of 50% bark mulch and 50% good soil. Add bone meal as per package directions.

Place the tree in the hole. Trees in fiber pots should have pots removed carefully. If the tree is balled and burlapped, set the tree in place, cut the top string only but leave the burlap on the root ball. Backfill the hole  being sure to tamp down the soil and water thoroughly to remove air pockets.

Attach the tree to a wooden stake (on prevailing wind side) using plastic ties. This stake should remain until the root system is well established. Be sure to inspect the tie regularly so that the tree is not girdled.

Finally, prune off any excess growth to encourage the tree to branch out in the shape and form desired. Refer to our Pruning Guides (available in-store) for more information on pruning.

After planting, water the tree well, then use a liquid transplanter fertilizer. Feed weekly with the transplanter until the roots are well established.

After planting, water thoroughly when the soil becomes dry, making sure the water gets down to the lowermost roots. Remember to water throughout the first full growing season, particularly during dry spells over summer.

Evergreen Trees

Prepare a hole 1 ½ to 2 times the width and depth of the root ball. Loosen up the tightly bound root system to allow roots to adapt to the new soil.

Backfill the hole to the depth of the original pot with a good mixture of soil, consisting of 50% bark mulch and 50% good soil. Avoid using manures with evergreens. Add bone meal as per package directions.

ALWAYS LIFT TREES BY THE POT, NOT THE BRANCHES. Plastic and fibre pots must be removed carefully. Burlap may be loosened around the ‘neck’ of the plant, but not removed.

Once in the hole, backfill with the soil mixture and tamp soil to prevent air pockets. Give the root ball a drink   half-way through backfilling to ensure the bottom most roots are moist. Plant evergreens level with the ground, not deeper.

After planting, water the tree well, then use a liquid transplanter fertilizer. Feed weekly with the transplanter until the roots are well established.

Evergreen trees should be watered when the soil becomes a little dry, giving ample water each time, ensuring that water gets down to the lowermost roots. Remember to water throughout the first full growing season, particularly during dry spells over summer. 

Flowering Shrubs

There are three important requirements for success with a flowering tree or shrub: Good air circulation, good sun exposure, good drainage.

The planting area should be thoroughly prepared with 14-16” of soil composed of up to 50% bark mulch and 50% good soil. Add bone meal as per package directions.

Remove pots carefully and place the plants so that the soil level in the pot is at ground level. Grafted trees should have the graft just above ground, and roses must have the graft just below ground level (see next section). If planting during the growing season, water well, then use a liquid transplant fertilizer. Remember to water throughout the first full growing season, particularly during dry spells over summer. 

Remember: The better you prepare the hole and plant the shrub, the better it will grow for you. If you plant it in ‘poor soil’ expect it to grow poorly. Also, if your shrub comes in a plastic, fiber or metal pot, the pot should be completely removed.

Roses

Follow the directions for Flowering Shrubs, however, be sure to plant the rose so that the branch union or ‘crown’ is just below the soil surface level and remove pots carefully as roots are soft.

Planting Distances:

  • Miniature Roses 12-18” apart
  • Hybrid Teas 3-4’ apart
  • Floribundas 3-4’ apart
  • Grandifloras 3-4’ apart           
  • Climbers 6-8’ apart
  • Shrub Roses 5-6’ apart

Winter Protection: Mulch or soil should be mounded to a height of 12” to act as insulation to prevent freezing and thawing on the graft.

Putting in New Hedges

Lift off an 18” wide strip of sod and compost it. Dig a trench 18” wide and 15-18” deep (wider and deeper if starting with larger plants; the trench should be 1 ½ to 2 times the width and depth of the root ball), removing all gravel, clay materials and debris. Add a mixture of 50% good soil and 50% fir or hemlock bark mulch and bone meal (as per package directions).

Individual plants should be set one inch deeper than their initial soil level in the pot. Tamp soil to expel air pockets. Water in well, then water using a liquid transplanter fertilizer.

Lightly cut back tops to encourage dense growth at the ground level. Once planted, water as necessary using ample water and feed weekly with a liquid transplanter fertilizer until the hedge is established. Remember to water throughout the first full growing season, particularly during dry spells over summer. 

General Garden Beds

Sod should be removed to desired size and shape of bed and composted. Dig out soil to a depth of 16-18” and mix with peat moss, manure and loam. Heavy clay soils can be opened up with the addition of fir or hemlock bark mulch, worked in until the soil crumbles nicely. Bark mulch may be also be used as a top dressing to conserve soil moisture.

Water all plants well when planting and use a liquid transplanter liquid fertilizer for all new plantings. Remember to water throughout the first full growing season, particularly during dry spells over summer. 

Some Common Planting Terms

Soil: Soil is a mixture of organic and inorganic materials, microorganisms, nutrients, air and moisture. Much of the soil in our area contains clay, which causes soil to be heavy and retain too much water. Almost all perennial plants and trees need well-drained soil to prevent root rot and to grow well. Depending on your soil type, you will likely need an addition of up to 50% bark mulch to provide improved growing conditions.

Loam: A medium weight soil usually composed of a sand, silt and clay mix.

Bark Mulch: Fine pieces of hemlock or fir (do not use cedar) bark that break up heavy soils and improve drainage. When applied above ground, bark mulch acts as a weed retardant, improves water retention during summer and helps insulate roots during winter.

Blended Soil: A soil additive consisting of peat moss, sand and other organic and inorganic material. Usually added to increase soil volume, not as a sole growing medium. If you are using this as your main soil, add a bit of peat moss on top to help seeds and young seedlings become established.

Bone Meal: A granular product that promotes root growth. Should be added to planting holes before planting. Refer to the container for application amounts.